Thursday, 17 January 2013

Kuala Lumpur: Our first day in Malaysia in pictures

Thursday January 17

We arrived in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, last night and have today gone up the second tallest tower in the city as well as visiting the tallest - the iconic Petronas Twin Towers.

The Petronas skyscrapers were the biggest buildings in the world from 1996 until 2003 - although they are now dwarfed by buildings in Dubai, Saudi Arabia, Taiwan, China and Hong Kong.

At a whopping 452 metres tall they make London's newest tower The Shard look tiny. The new building in London is 'just' 310 metres high, with 95 floors.

We have also visited the aquarium in Kuala Lumpur.
Kelly-Ann looks out from the observation deck at the KL Menara Tower - the second tallest building in Malaysia
A view of Kuala Lumpur from the air
Kelly-Ann has a drink of water as we prepare to go up the KL Menara tower - after walking up a hill in stifling 30C heat to get to the basement
Iconic: The Petronas Twin Towers in Kuala Lumpur which were once the (joint) tallest buildings in the world
The Petronas Twin Towers
I touch a horseshoe crab in the Kuala Lumpur aquarium (They are not poisonous, and yes, we were allowed to touch)
Up close: A small alligator in the aquarium


Thailand picture round-up

After spending Christmas and New Year in Thailand, we have now moved onto Malaysia.

During our time in the country we visited Bangkok, Chiang Mai, Koh Samui, Krabi and Phuket.

Here are some pictures from our month there. 
Bamboo raft down the river in Chiang Mai just after Christmas
Wat Arun Temple in Bangkok which we visited just before Christmas. Bangkok is astonishingly hot!

Hot! We climbed very steep steps up the side of the temple which is right next to the river in Bangkok
Christmas: We spent December 25 by the pool in the one nice hotel we have booked during our four month trip. Kelly-Ann reads her Kindle here
Christmas: I drink a Coca Cola. We stayed at the excellent Empress Hotel in Chiang Mai
More bamboo rafting in Chiang Mai. The man on the boat lets me have a go (presumably because he wanted a rest)

Elephant camp: I feed an elephant some sugar cane in Chiang Mai
Bath time: An elephant is washed in the river at the elephant camp near Chiang Mai
Really Big Buddha: A huge Buddha which we visited in Bangkok just before new year. It is indoors and lying down
Koh Samui: We stayed in a bungalow which was right by this excellent beach in early January
We went on a day out to the excellent Angthong National Marine Park while in Koh Samui
Kelly-Ann on the beach at the Angthong National Marine Park
Mummified monk: One of the more unusual tourist attractions in Koh Samui. This monk, who died in the 1970s, was mummified after starting a new order on the island. It was done so that he can be an example to future generations
Kelly-Ann at a huge waterfall in Koh Samui. Unfortunately we can't tell you anything else about this attraction - because the tour guide's English included only the words "photo, photo" and "we stay here one hour"
Kelly-Ann at the waterfall
Phuket: We spent six days in the large island of Phuket right at the end of our stay in Thailand. We had three days in Patong, and three days in Phuket Town. Here I drink a Coca Cola during a day trip to Karon beach
Kelly-Ann drinks a Fanta at a cafe by Karon beach
Sun loungers lined out at Karon beach in Phuket
Karon beach in Phuket

Friday, 11 January 2013

Thai terror ride: Terrible minibus journey to Phuket

Thursday January 10

Well, we made it at least.

We've read a lot about the dangers of Thailand's roads and the lives needlessly lost - so every time we book a journey it is with some trepidation.

And our trip to Phuket was the most terrifying coach journey of my life.

After spending two nights in the dull seaside town of Krabi we booked a £7 coach journey to the nearby island which is connected to the Thai mainland by a bridge.
Cramped: The terrible 16-seater minibus which should have had about 10 people in it
When travelling it is essential to do your research online - to check that the company you are booking with are not a bunch of cowboys who use vehicles that should have been consigned to the scrapheap years ago.

But I could not find a single mention online of Hadyai World Tour Ltd (also spelt Hatyai) - so we wrongly assumed it would be okay to use them. Their door-to-door service sounded excellent in the travel agents.

When our 10.50am pick up finally arrived at about 11.15am our bags were tossed into the back of a van and we were driven at breakneck speed to a 'depot' in the middle of nowhere and dumped - with around 50 other travellers who were already waiting. It was hardly a good start.
Chaos: We were dropped off at this depot a shot way outside Krabi and made to wait for another vehicle
Eventually another minibus pulled up - and 15 passengers were crammed into the tiniest minibus which properly should have sat about 10 people.

Kelly-Ann was rammed into the back right corner with the hot wheel beneath her and I was jammed in next to her. With no room for the bags they were strapped to the roof with a flimsy bit of string. At least it wasn't raining.

Finally, an hour and a half after our 10.50ampick-up should have happened we were away and actually heading to Phuket. So the Thai driver instantly stopped just a mile down the road so he could pick up a drink. Non-alcoholic I think, although I wouldn't be surprised if it was a gin and tonic.
And we're away... oh no: When we finally got away the driver immediately pulled into a petrol station to buy a drink (hopefully not alcoholic)
When we finally got away the exhausted roar of the engine sounded like a dying vehicle that has clocked up 200,000 miles - after it had been recovered from the scrapyard. There was simply no way this vehicle would pass an MoT on Britain.

I'd have been far happier if I was driving, and I've never been behind the wheel of a minibus and going out on Thailand's roads terrifies me.

Despite the  delapidated state of the vehicle, we reached some truly astonishing speeds.

If the driver could just stay properly in control at all times, there could be a racer in him yet. Laying off the G&T would also help (that's a joke). Still, he insisted on taking the racing line every time he went round a blind bend - often drifting across both lanes of the dual carriageway and the hard shoulder, oblivious to other traffic.

Several other times he went across the solid yellow line that marks the inner most edge of the road. Why he did that still baffles me. 
Terror ride: The awful minibus which was a lot older than it looks in this picture
Bad driver: The clown who drove us to Phuket so dangerously
With four people shoved into the back row, to my left sat an extremely smelly young Malaysian man who proceeded to nod off repeatedly - with his head dipping towards my crotch each time until I shoved him away.

On the far left was another man who spent the whole terrifying journey on his MacBook editing topless pictures of himself on the beach. Part way through the journey he burst into song. I'm no judge of singing talent, but even I know a tone deaf performer when I hear one wailing like this.

The vehicle was supposed to have air conditioning - but of course it didn't. The heat was so oppressive that my wet back was plastered to the seat and I had to down litre after litre of water.

And this is Thailand so it goes without saying there wasn't a single seatbelt on the whole minibus - or at least one that worked. There were several times when I squeezed the bar on the seat in front tightly, utterly convinced that we were about to crash.

All the while the danger driver was sat nonchalantly holding the steering wheel with one hand - as I would when cruising in traffic in first gear - but as he took sharp bends at over 70mph.

Afterwards you can trivialise the risk and make out that it really wasn't that bad, because you made it to your destination nothing won't wrong. 

That argument doesn't wash with me - some of these bus companies, and this one in particular, run a dreadful and dangerous service.

There's a definite market for a European company to come into Thailand and offer a premium bus service that adheres to EU safety standards.

The road network is not to blame for the unnecessary deaths each year. In the main the dual carriageways are every bit as good as in Britain.

It's just the dreadful vehicles and drivers that are the problem.

Well, we made it.

Wednesday, 9 January 2013

Koh Samui: A beautiful Thai island

January 3 - 8

After the hustle and bustle of Bangkok, we headed south to Koh Samui one of Thailand's largest islands. We booked into a tiny bungalow which was just yards from the beach.

The scene was idyllic - golden sands, brilliant blue sea and palm trees.

To cater for the thousands of thousands of tourists who arrive every year, the island has been massively developed. It is not the deserted paradise it was just a decade ago.

However, our accommodation on the Big Buddha beach was a bit out of the way so we got as close as you can to the 'real Samui'.
Idyllic: The Big Buddha beach which was no more than 100 yards from our small wooden bungalow in Koh Samui
Day out: The Angthong National Marine Park which we visited on a day out during our time in Koh Samui
Beautiful: Angthong National Marine Park
Kelly-Ann on the beach outside our accommodation
Sunset on the beach (and yes, it did absolutely tip it down about two minutes after we took this picture)
Kelly-Ann swimming in the sea
I bang my foot on some rocks

I wear Kelly-Ann's shades in the back of a 'taxi' because the wind was hurting my contact lenses

Waterfall: We were taken there by a man who spoke no English on a safari trip. As a result, we don't know its name. It is in Koh Samui
I climbed up the waterfall (circled). There was a footpath at the side
Close-up of where I climbed to


Chiang Mai cooking class

By Kelly-Ann - Rob finally let me write a blog post!

Chef Wenban: I'm hard at work in the kitchen
One of the activities I most wanted to do in Thailand was a cooking course - mainly as a ruse to teach Robert to cook!

We decided on an evening course with Asia scenic Thai cooking school, where we were able to learn how to make three dishes of our choice. It took place in a traditional Thai home, with ten other people.
Messy: Rob's Pad Thai minus the egg
Before cooking started, we were taken on a tour of the herb garden. Our instructor Ann gave us information about all of the common herbs, spices and vegetables that they use in Thai cooking. This was followed by a trip to the local market where we were shown different types of noodles and rice, and how to cook them.

Robert and I both chose to make Pad Thai and spring rolls. In addition I made Panang curry, and Robert chose a Massaman curry.

The actual cooking involved straightforward instructions and demonstrations from Ann - who was very funny and spoke great English! Robert, as always, enjoyed being centre of attention, initially by smashing the egg which was meant for the pad Thai all over the hob and the floor. This was hastily followed up by making a spring roll the size of a small pillow. He's definitely entertaining!

Rob 's antics aside it was a really fun evening, learning new dishes and meeting nice people. I may even cook some of the dishes for you when we are back. (Rob can provide the monster munch nibbles!).

I think you will all agree that my blog posts are far more entertaining. :-)
Rob's spring rolls: His first effort, on the right, ended up looking more like a pillow than a spring roll
Video: Rob cooks his spring rolls

Travel scams: The tricks to rip you off we have encountered in Thailand, Vietnam and China


In a break from the usual blog posts about what we have been up to, let me tell you about some of the scams people have attempted to pull on us while away.

Some of the tricks are absurdly amateurish - others are remarkable for their ingenuity. At the end of the day though, these people are all thieves.

While there's obviously a risk that one of our bags could be snatched, people seem keener just to rip tourists off as it is easier to get away with.

While the majority of traders run honest businesses, the lowly conduct of the minority means we end up treating everyone as a potential crook.

As a general rule, if a deal sounds too good to be true it is.

The tricks are as follows:

1) "You've won a prize!" - The morning after arriving in Koh Samui, an island in southern Thailand, a Brummie man called Ian pulled over on his motorbike to speak to us as we ventured out to find some breakfast.
Con: The flyer we were given which we opened up to reveal we had 'won a prize'
After a brief bit of chatter about how he was promoting a new Club Tropical resort he instructed me to open my flyer - and it said I had won a t-shirt.

Not caring in the slightest about this tacky prize, Kelly-Ann opened hers and it said she had won either an iPad, iPhone or £1000! Amazing!

Ian, a bald man who you wouldn't give the time of day to in Birmingham, danced a jig of delight. The fag-breathed man was so pleased he gave Kelly-Ann a congratulatory kiss on the cheek. Gross. He told us he would get a huge bonus for handing out our winning ticket.

Now all this didn't sound completely unbelievable because it was coming from a "friendly" bald Englishman - and not a Thai person who we would instantly suspect.
Vile con artist: Ian, from Birmingham, the man who told us we had 'won an iPad' as part of a con. Minutes after he had tried to pull his trick on us he was back - and I got this long-range picture of him
Reading this you will smell a rat and you would run a mile from this con artist in Birmingham, but hey, you lower your inhibitions abroad. And this is a polished act.

But anyway, he was so delighted with the "win" that he offered to get us in a taxi to the resort to collect our prize and buy us a breakfast.

As he tried to build up rapport, he told Kelly-Ann he had a daughter with the same name (almost certainly untrue, but it makes him seem friendly).

And here's where the catch comes in. We both had to be in full time employment under the terms and conditions (why this stops us collecting a prize is far from clear). We also had to be living together for at least two years (again, bizarre). Finally, we had to be aged 30 (why!?)

This is where the scam fell apart - as we were not 30 he was not interested in taking us. Not living together was not an issue apparently.

The trick here is that he was taking us to a 90-minute presentation about buying a timeshare - where slick salesman would offer us an "unbelievable deal". If real, the timeshare will be worthless. Of course, we would definitely have said no to all of this (and not got our "prize") so really the scam was only going to waste our time.

The only reason for the "no under 30s" rule must be that no one under that age ever ever buys a timeshare.

Con artist's flyer: Mine said that I had won a t-shirt. Remarkably Kelly-Ann's said that she had won a  huge prize. This sounded too good to be true because it was a scam
Two hours later we spotted Ian on the same stretch of road trying to give more people "winning" flyers. Anyway, I managed to get a slightly grainy picture of him using our camera's zoom - so here I out the rat online.

If I was able to give this wretched individual the right of reply I'm sure he would insist the prizes are genuine and he's an honest man. However, the testimony of multiple other travellers online tells me the opposite.

Club Tropical "promoters" and everyone else offering scratchcards which turn out to be winners are con artists.

2) "Taxi on the meter to your destination" - a scam we fell for.

Taxis the world over have meters - but none of the drivers abroad ever want to put them on because they can charge tourists a much higher price.

Arriving into Hanoi train station, Vietnam, at 5am a man on the platform offered to put us in a cab "on the meter". We should have suspected something straight away - but it was 5am.

The driver loaded our luggage in then put my bag in front of the meter before switching it on.

He then set off in the wrong direction as he took us on an impromptu sight-seeing tour of the city as his dodgy meter racked up ludicrous charges.

Fortunately we knew where we were supposed to be going - but had to yell at him which way we should drive as he played his confused foreigner act.

Undoubtedly his little joyride would have lasted a lot longer if we didn't know the right way.

We should have agreed a fare in advance - but we made the mistake of trusting him.

As his final coup de grace he revealed the journey had clocked up a charge of five times the actual cost (although only about £7). So we paid the crook half of that and let him go off to dupe some more tourists.

3) "I'm a student learning English and need to practice" - definitely the most common but also the most poorly executed trick of the lot.

A smartly-dressed man approached us outside the Forbidden City, Beijing, and told us he was a student and tried to start a conversation with us.

The idea is he would eventually invite us to an art gallery or traditional tea ceremony where we would be charged an exorbitant fee (£50 each we are told) for the concocted "experience".

However, this scam has been going on for years - and was the very first thing we were warned about when arriving in China. People have tried this on us so many times it's laughable.

The cons are always about building rapport. Two girls from New Zealand who didn't ultimately fall for it said a woman in Vietnam told them she used to have a boyfriend in their country - and quoted their international dialling code to "prove" it.

This was nonsense - and just part of their cocktail of lies designed to build up familiarity and trust.

4) The bird poo scam - Standing at the bus stop in Bangkok on New Year's Day, suddenly a poo splattered down from above caking my hair, glasses, t-shirt and hitting my leg.

This poo was so big that it must have been the work of an eagle or a bird that had eaten a vindaloo the night before.

I looked up furiously - but remarkably there were no birds in sight.

The next thing that should happen in this scam is a friendly local arrives on the scene with a towel offering to wash me off. In the next few moments, as a couple more people help out, my wallet should mysteriously disappear from my pocket.

The poo of course in this scam is their own creation - and the whole thing an elaborate trick.

Luckily for me - or unluckily - there was no one on hand with a towel. I just got pooed on.

5) Cheap coach scam - this isn't really a con, it's just crime.

A number of bus companies in the Khao San Road area of Bangkok popular with tourists offer long distance coaches at really low prices.

However, theft on these from the hold is endemic. Travellers have reported picking up their bag and only later realising their travel money or laptop has vanished - because someone has been systematically going through the bags and emptying out everything worth taking.

Often these buses are double deckers, and I believe the owners seal off the downstairs. They then access the hold internally and take your possessions.

Some people on overnight coaches have claimed online that they were "gassed" so that thieves could take things straight from their pockets. This sounds slightly far-fetched, and the claims are impossible for me to verify.

Also, as these buses are so cheap the safety of the vehicles is also questionable.

The way round this scam is to spend a bit more money and go on the train, get a government-run bus (of which there are many) or book with a reputable company like Lomprayah, who have offices in Bangkok on Rambuttri Road.

6) Thai gem scam - we've not actually encountered this trick, but heard about people who have. It's such a common con that you would have to either be just off the plane or very foolish to fall for it.

Thai retailers offer gems at bargain never to be be repeated prices in their shabby backstreet shop. These people are professional tricksters so do everything they can to build rapport - will tell you about family in England and convince you the offer is fantastic. Of course, the stones are worthless.

There is another linked trick - the conman asks you to transport some gems for them to their family in England. At the other end you will receive £1,000 for them - you just have to pay him £500 now in cash and then collect the gems the next day.

You'll be given a genuine English address and the whole thing will sound plausible. In reality, if you ever receive the stones they will be worthless.

If you don't know of the scam in advance, these people will be very convincing. In reality it is a trick and these people are crooks.